Journeys End

Great satisfaction in cutting this big island into two equal parts. Leaving Boulia 15 days ago would also be the last full rest day of the ride. Thirteen hundred kilometres in fifteen days. If I look at each of those days - they all were enjoyable rides. The fitness from two months pushing head wind allowed good averages speeds without burning reserves. My sleep dropped from 12 to 10 hours another sign that I was working within the limits of fuel, sleep and fitness. There is real pleasure in reaching this level of cruise mode.


The last few days have been spent devising a rating system for waves from passing vehicles:

1. The unseen wave behind dark tinted windscreen. Dumb (-5 points)
2. The finger barely raised off the steering wheel. Lazy only worth a brief nod back (0.5 points)
3. Whole hand raised off the steering wheel. A little more enthusiastic (2 points)
4. Vigorous hand wave. Better (5 points)
5. Hand out the window waving. (10 points)
6. Lights flashing and/or friendly toot in advance of 4 or 5 above (20 points)
7. Whole family waving out every window (50 points)
8. Car stops to let dust settle everyone gets out for selfie (Warburton Community special 100 points)

So glad I took the half day at Middleton Hotel. Meeting good people and relaxing with a bit of fun. Swiss couple Urs and Heidi crossed paths three times over the next week. Once with the vital supply of pomegranate juice as the temperatures soared. Perfect timing. There were a couple of bush camps between Boulia and Winton, and a cattle bore camp on the way to Longreach. Spent the night with noisy kangaroo drinkers. Clouds of other insects joined the flies at meal time and my coffee was enriched with more than a few black bodies.


Longreach was a town of odd angled streets which fooled my compass a few times. Odd circles to the supermarket. Thanks to motorcyclist David for his generous shout of my usual huge breakfast. Avocado appeared for the first time among the bacon eggs and more unhealthy stuff. Barcaldine started a trend of closed pubs, perhaps three in a row was too many for even Queensland locals. Another thanks to Helen at the caravan park for donating the tent site. Another cancer survivor.


Jerico reversed the trend of high-thirty temperatures, plunging to a chilly five degrees overnight. Hands fumbling to light the cooker in the chilling wind. The road towards Alpha started the climb into the Great Australian Divide and Central Highlands. The Drummond Range changed dramatically from the horizon-less flats to some grunty climbs and corners less than ten kilometres apart. Alpha pub continued the trend of closed pubs, leaving the little town totally dry.


Bogantunga was the only place with water after Alpha. Couldn’t raise the keeper of the museum to resolve the mystery of the strange name. The one train of the day flashed past just before dark. Hints of Outback express luxury noted through the windows.


Emerald came as a surprise, suddenly no longer outback town territory as the Big Mac signs announced a slightly disappointing sameness. Dingo Roadhouse followed a hundred and thirty km down the road, back to outback basics but surprisingly good food. Another classic outback pub at Westward was a fitting last night on the road. Rough but everything I needed to cook breakfast on the veranda - see the sunrise relax for the short stint into Rockhampton.


A final thanks to all supporters. Those who contributed to the cancer cause, and those who pushed my dots along the hard stretches.
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Lily dale Valley

Line dancers through the wringer Middleton

Middleton Hotel Bar

Wool wagon Ifracombe

Flatlands coming into Longreach

First boab tree

First time I noticed Queensland cactus

Happy corner Capricorn Highway

Used car lot Capricorn Highway 

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Great Roadhouse food at Dingo

Westwood “donga” final night on the road

Heading into Rockhampton