The Croatian Mix

If you had asked me twelve months ago about countries I would love to visit, Croatia probably wouldn’t have been on the list. However when a good biking friend like Buck tells you he is riding from Athina to Ljubljana “do you want to come?” - “Yes” is the only possible answer.  Croatia has been a mix. Coastal scenic beauty, yes. Tourist seaside playgrounds, yes.  But we have also experienced the high remote rocky mountain country.  Small villages nestled in small high grassy plateaus. From the intimacy of the bike seat the differences unfold. The old folk bent over in flourishing gardens return the “dobro dan’s”. The dogs just bark and race beside until the good NZ “Get in behind!” cuts through the dog translation.

The islands add to the mix. Short efficient ride-on ride-off ferries, beating the bigger trucks by starting riding before the ramp has stopped sliding up the concrete.  A quick juice in the saloon on the way. Flat glassy sea in the island shelter, often purple blue water clarity. By the quantity of seafood we have eaten, the sea is still holding fish stocks. Squid may be an issue as Brian and I have found a favourite in stuffed squid.

The islands all have high rocky backbones. Unfortunately the ferries only operate at zero metres above sea level. To follow our route we need to add about five hundred metres of elevation to that. Only to recklessly lose it all down to the next ferry. Doing that two or three times a day ends with legs knotted tight. Sometimes it pays not to look up the cliff at the village where we have chosen to stay.  Coming off the ferry heading to Apartment Plavcic on Monday, we had climbed about three hundred metres when I came across Buck and Brian with evil grins on their faces. I waited until my panting subsided, thinking the climb had ended when Brian pointed to the sign behind him. Fifteen degrees. The slope had just stepped up a notch to end the day on a sweaty high. Apartment Plavcic was down an even steeper slope, and the owner had marked the place on Google maps about three hundred metres further down the hill. He redeemed himself by immediately producing three cold Slovenian beers. The view from his balcony further eased the pain and provided a perfect place to lay out the sleeping bag under the stars.

Our plans have morphed since avoiding the cruel bike push torture of our intended Adriatic Crest route. A couple of days diversion will take into Italy, switching to a EuroVelo trail which heads north through Slovenia towards Austria. A chance to dump our redundant camping gear in Ljubljana to explore some of the northern Slovenian mountains. This bike riding in Europe has unlimited options.

A sea of many islands

Coastal beauty

Seaside tourist playgrounds

Classic villages

Remote farmland

Ferries to join islands

Four Countries twenty two days

So different from my usual tent to tent bike journeys. Showers every night instead of every week. Company and friendship each step of the journey. No solo pilgrimage this time. The EuroVelo bike routes have focused on the rural villages and back country lanes.  With tourist traffic building to a summer high we are gratefully out of the way of the convoys of tourist buses and motor homes. It is always a relief to get off the linking highway stints.

The terrain has made the cycling a challenge.  The mountains drop straight down to the sea. Every small beautiful coastal village has a steep climb back out. The gravel is loose so a fight for traction on those sections. It still feels safer than the highway traffic.

The tourist destinations we pass are mostly by chance. Our itinerary is determined by pedal speed and what there is at the end of our 80 km average. The experience is enriched by the locals we meet at each stop. Sazan our Albanian host still contacts us every day. Buck has a friend for life even if neither understands a word. Last night we virtually joined a mafia birthday party (we knew there must be a reason for Sazan’s two new black BMWs).

Montenegro passed in a two day flash, even on a bike. The special gifts for Brian’s birthday were the views unfolding down to Kotor.  Croatia is showing marked differences. Good food and cheap appartments still making the tent redundant. The sheltered passages, bays and islands clearly make this are a sailors dream. Our connecting ferry rides have given us a taste.
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Last night we blundered into Roman history looking for a meal  Diocletian's Palace Is literally just around the corner. Built for the emperor’s retirement, it is uniquely still occupied by shops, restaurants and hotels. A true living monument. I am fascinated by the centuries of wear on the cobble stones polishing them smooth. Simple things. Rest days always have a list of chores. Bike maintenance high on the list but today maybe a bit of relaxing and wondering at the past.

Sazan always watching us from Albania

Lasting memories from Montenegro

Adriatic coast a sailors dream

Zuljana apartment hospitality and homemade vino

Starting our island hop at Orebic

Thrust into the tourist world of Roman history in Split

Alleyways and restaurants within the Castle