Sazan Hosting a lesson in trust

Albania

Sazan rings us at seven in the morning. We have absolutely no language in common. Three weary cyclists in beds in a row in the “family” room of Grand Europa Hotel in Shkroder and an Albanian hotelier. We met two days ago in Rrogozhine a town you will all know very well. Perhaps not. The phone call is luckily on video so sign language works. Much laughter. Our dinner two days ago with Sazan will be one of the enduring memories of Albania.

We started with a Google search for the nearest restaurant from Sazan’s hotel. Sazan had offered to drive us. Two kilometres to “Presco” restaurant. Perfect we thought. It quickly became clear Sazan was not happy with our choice. His foot floored in his new BMW. Divjake was his target destination. An uncertain silence fell over the three passengers, Buck’s nervousness grew as  Sazan asked if his room was locked back at the hotel. We headed past Divjake into deep woodland, then down a rough track. We looked at each other and the huge old rambling barn we had stopped beside.

Inside the atmosphere was immediately obvious full of fun and classic Albanian food. The proprietor orchestrated the show.  His English consisted of “thank you” the same limit as our Albanian. But it proved no barrier. The menu was simple 1700lek for all you could eat of two species of grilled fish. The fish arrived at the table on a wire grill. Two whole fish landed on each plate. Three for Brian and Sazan. No choice in the quantity “thank you” “thank you”. Laughter beer and good wine. Soft drink for Sazan as the Polizia are strict on drink driving. More fish, shrimps salads and huge spring onions which are chewed with the fish. Then the crowning desert - yoghurt with half a pot of honey. A taste I have acquired with gusto, proudly I was the only one to finish.

My at the end of the meal I was guided by the owner to the back of the barn. A virtual museum from Roman, Greek, Hungarian, Croation and Albanian history. A treasure trove of quirky relics.

In the car Buck said quietly “A lesson in trust”. It was exactly that, a unique offering of hospitality made possible by back country cycling landing us at a local (non tourist) hotel. We gained the perfect tourist gift and insight of Albania.

More uncertainty next morning with the breakfast offering of rake (2000% proof alcohol) with thick tar-like coffee.  Brian and I braved both heads in wee fuzzy clouds as we cycled away.

This has been Albania. Scenically beautiful with a back country lane cycle route that has exposed real people, the extreme poor alongside new Mercs and Audis and the insight which makes travel by bike so special.

The goat herds on every hill

Greek Odyssey

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Our ride through Greece is almost due for a switch of country. Such a privilege to have been able to explore this iconic Ionian Coast. I had expected a touch of Mediterranean coastal beauty, but the ride has delivered a constant stream of “wow” moments. The combination of scenery and the magic interactions along the way that only bicycle pace makes possible. On top of that there is the layers of history. Some barely noticeable on the tops of climbs, some on a scale of the early Christian walls near Preveza.

The tent has stayed on the bike, partly due to closed camp grounds, partly due to cheap hotels dotted at every village. Likewise the camp cooker has been sidelined by cheap restaurants. Food has been without exception fresh, interesting and tasty. Our number one meal is without doubt the shrimps in white sauce in the tiny restaurant in Mytikas. The proprietress treated us like visiting family, finishing the feast with two complimentary deserts each.

The climbing has steadily increased, yesterday completing over 1100 metres of climb. Our EuroVelo GPS track has taken us off main roads at every opportunity. Quaint village lanes and tracks through olive groves. Yesterday our path climbed up and down to a series of sandy beaches with holiday preparations in full swing. Summer season will start in earnest next week at Greek Orthodox Easter, so we are ahead of the crowds. Some of our “garden route” paths end with pedal testing 16degree climbs. The trusty trailer causes a lot of sweat. The intricate track requires constant navigation and a few stops to check direction.

For me this has been a totally new bike experience, luxury of warm showers every night, food and beds prepared. Great also to have the company of two great cyclists, Buck and Brian (despite them pushing me on every hill).

​A bike ride with slightly more regular luxuries than the Australian desert

​Beautiful coast keeps rolling by

​Our route meanders through village backstreets

History crosses paths frequently

Once again Buck waits for the trailer to catch up

Seaside routes with no traffic - cycling mecca (the beauty of travelling before the Easter rush)

Lots of quiet back road diversions

The long drop into Igoumenitsa last night - 100km 1100 metres of climb

Dope Cafe across the road from the Hotel - daily lunch spot

Zolo has been hard at work scouting the route across Mongolia with their Russian van.  The locals have assured him that the rivers will be possible to walk across in summer